Archive for April, 2010

Pembroke, Range West Briefings 2010

April 28th, 2010

Dale route checking in Pembroke

Dale route checking in Pembroke

Its getting to that time of the year when the MOD all access to the western part of the Castlemartin firing range in Pembroke. As the area is a live firing range it is full of nasties such as unexploded bombs. Climbing is still restricted by and anyone wishing to climb within the range must attend one of the briefings held at the Castlemartin camp.

In previous years a briefed climber could take an unbriefed climber onto the range but as of last year this is no longer the case and all climbers must attend one of the briefings which start at 9am and are to be held on:

  • Saturday 29 May
  • Saturday 19 June – Cancelled, re-arranged for 3rd July
  • Saturday 31 July

Please note the range is closed for the whole month of June. The MoD have exercises operating 7 days a week. The range is due to reopen on the 3rd July.

More information can be found on the BMC website here and here

Llanymynech access problems

April 9th, 2010

Recent developments, poor behaviour by some climbers and the rise in popularity of this excellent site have caused concerns for the owners of this Nature Reserve. Negotiations are underway to protect access to this nationally important climbing site, but some new restrictions could be imposed.

Climbing has taken place here since at least the 1950s, and today there is a great mixture of some long traditional routes as well as some of the longest and best quality accessible sports routes in the Midlands. However the site is also a Nature Reserve (managed jointly by the Montgomery and Shropshire Wildlife Trusts) and has been a Site of Special Scientific Interest since 1953. This means that some activities (called “Operations Likley to Damage the Special Interest”) need formal consent from Natural England, and that carrying out these activities without formal consent can be illegal under the Wildlife & Countryside Act. This is quite a comprehensive list and includes such things as spreading fertiliser, burning vegetation, but also includes activities such as carrying out engineering works such as drilling (including bolts!), modification or clearance of loose rock or grading rockfaces.

Click here to read the full article on the BMC website

Dave’s dream come true

April 6th, 2010

DW2 managed to ‘break his dream’ this Easter weekend by finally climbing A Dream of white horses HVS 5a on Wen slab, Gogarth after 8 years and 9 attempts. He said, “I’d gone to do the route on many occasions but had to abort for various reasons including bad weather and once a partner refused to abseil down with me!” The route traverses the slab from the right and passes above spiders web arch in the back of the zawn. Climbing is atmospheric and a slip on the last pitch can leave you dangling in space. After the route was completed he commented, “Pitch 4 is a real adventure and my type of climbing!”

Dave at high water belay on pitch 1

Approaching belay on pitch 1

Considering gear options on pitch 2

Traversing to concrete chimney on pitch 3

Savouring the moves on pitch 4

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