Archive for the ‘Climbing News’ category

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Wild campers face first Scotland ban

July 10th, 2010

In Scotland you can camp pretty much any where which is different from England & Wales. It seems that this freedom is now under threat thanks to vandals and the irresponsible who are causing problems around Loch Lomond.

A small minority of campers from nearby cities are vandalising property, leaving litter and cutting down trees despite years of failed attempts by the police to stop the reckless behaviour.

You can read the full article on the Guardian website by clicking the link below

Wild campers face first Scotland ban | Travel | guardian.co.uk.

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Pembroke, Range West Briefings 2010

April 28th, 2010

Dale route checking in Pembroke

Dale route checking in Pembroke

Its getting to that time of the year when the MOD all access to the western part of the Castlemartin firing range in Pembroke. As the area is a live firing range it is full of nasties such as unexploded bombs. Climbing is still restricted by and anyone wishing to climb within the range must attend one of the briefings held at the Castlemartin camp.

In previous years a briefed climber could take an unbriefed climber onto the range but as of last year this is no longer the case and all climbers must attend one of the briefings which start at 9am and are to be held on:

  • Saturday 29 May
  • Saturday 19 June – Cancelled, re-arranged for 3rd July
  • Saturday 31 July

Please note the range is closed for the whole month of June. The MoD have exercises operating 7 days a week. The range is due to reopen on the 3rd July.

More information can be found on the BMC website here and here

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Llanymynech access problems

April 9th, 2010

Recent developments, poor behaviour by some climbers and the rise in popularity of this excellent site have caused concerns for the owners of this Nature Reserve. Negotiations are underway to protect access to this nationally important climbing site, but some new restrictions could be imposed.

Climbing has taken place here since at least the 1950s, and today there is a great mixture of some long traditional routes as well as some of the longest and best quality accessible sports routes in the Midlands. However the site is also a Nature Reserve (managed jointly by the Montgomery and Shropshire Wildlife Trusts) and has been a Site of Special Scientific Interest since 1953. This means that some activities (called “Operations Likley to Damage the Special Interest”) need formal consent from Natural England, and that carrying out these activities without formal consent can be illegal under the Wildlife & Countryside Act. This is quite a comprehensive list and includes such things as spreading fertiliser, burning vegetation, but also includes activities such as carrying out engineering works such as drilling (including bolts!), modification or clearance of loose rock or grading rockfaces.

Click here to read the full article on the BMC website

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Sport England seeks new Board members

February 25th, 2010

Sport England wants leading individuals in community sport to consider applying to join its Board.
Sport England and the Department for Culture, Media and Sport are seeking to recruit up to five new Board members, strengthening the team that oversees Sport England’s performance as it works to create a world-leading community sport system. These vacancies provide an opportunity for a suitably experienced member of the mountaineering world to play an influential role in the development of community sport in England.

Read the full article on the BMC website.

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Drytooling

January 27th, 2010

You may or may not have heard of drytooling. It is climbing but crampons and ice axes are used to cross terrain that does not contain ice or snow. Outdoor it is usually used to cross an area of rock to reach another area of snow or ice. Drytooling is also becoming popular at indoor walls where crampons are not used but axes, a helmet and other safety equipment is used.

Shropshire climbing wall is hosting a drytooling event in February. It sounds like the taster sessions and competition they have planned will be fun to watch. Full details are on their website www.newportrock.com

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Access & Conservation Update

December 2nd, 2009

The BMC has published a few articles recently regarding climbing, access and conservation in the areas we use as a club. Click the links (all open in a new window) to read the articles on the BMC’s website.

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Slate Quaries Access & Conservation

October 14th, 2009

Carol looning the tube

Carol on Looning the Tube, Dinorwig Quarries

The Dinorwig quarries are our local crag when we are at the hut. As some may be aware part of t quarry was closed for filming over the summer and Dali’s hole is becoming more and more popular. The owners of the quarries, First Hydro, have concerns about their liability.

The BMC requests

Climbers are asked to avoid gathering in large groups at this very visible site [Dali's Hole] and organised groups (club meets, youth groups, etc.) are requested to be particulary aware of the sensitivity of this site and the need to keep a low profile here.

You can read the full report on the BMC website here BMC – Access & Conservation .

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Andy Cave Lecture Tour

September 30th, 2009

Andy Cave, a well known climber and mountain guide is currently on a lecture tour. It may be of interest for some, particularly  for those who have read his book. For more details see http://www.speakersfromtheedge.com/events/andy-cave-tour-autumn-09

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BMC Tremadog Festival

April 2nd, 2009

This year’s BMC Tremadog Festival will be held over the weekend of the 17th- 19th April, based at Eric’s.

The aim of the weekend is to continue the restoration of Bwlch y Moch. All you have to do is to turn up from 9.30am Saturday with secateurs and/or a pruning saw, climb a route and clean it up. The more routes that receive this treatment the better for everyone,
Apart from trowels, hand forks and gardening gloves, a very useful tool is a “patio knife” for digging out cracks. This can be bought for under a fiver from most garden stores.
You will get a raffle ticket for each route that you clean, and once the working day is over there will be a raffle, with prizes donated by DMM, Joe Brown, V12, Pete’s Eats, GroundUp, The Bronwen Arms & The BMC.
The beer for the evening is sponsored by The BMC, The Climbers’ Club and Derby University M.C.
There will be a free show by Tim Neill about his adventures in Patagonia, and the bonfire will go on till late. Rumours of a BBQ are hard to confirm, but are not as unlikely as they seem.

Find out more at: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3016
Contact the BMC’s Cymru/Wales team on bmccymruwales@live.co.uk

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BMC Midlands Area newsletter – Issue 7

March 11th, 2009

Issue 7 of the BMC Midlands Area newsletter is now online, keeping you informed about what’s happening in the region; with all the latest news, upcoming events, club and wall information, and more.

The newsletter has been produced entirely by the volunteers of the BMC’s Midlands Area, and is intended to keep you informed of the work they’re doing on your behalf. Feedback is welcome, as are contributions from climbers and hill walkers about their exploits locally and further afield.

Download the Midlands Area Newsletter

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