Pembroke, Range West Briefings 2010

April 28th, 2010 by committee No comments »

Dale route checking in Pembroke

Dale route checking in Pembroke

Its getting to that time of the year when the MOD all access to the western part of the Castlemartin firing range in Pembroke. As the area is a live firing range it is full of nasties such as unexploded bombs. Climbing is still restricted by and anyone wishing to climb within the range must attend one of the briefings held at the Castlemartin camp.

In previous years a briefed climber could take an unbriefed climber onto the range but as of last year this is no longer the case and all climbers must attend one of the briefings which start at 9am and are to be held on:

  • Saturday 29 May
  • Saturday 19 June – Cancelled, re-arranged for 3rd July
  • Saturday 31 July

Please note the range is closed for the whole month of June. The MoD have exercises operating 7 days a week. The range is due to reopen on the 3rd July.

More information can be found on the BMC website here and here

Llanymynech access problems

April 9th, 2010 by MickJ No comments »

Recent developments, poor behaviour by some climbers and the rise in popularity of this excellent site have caused concerns for the owners of this Nature Reserve. Negotiations are underway to protect access to this nationally important climbing site, but some new restrictions could be imposed.

Climbing has taken place here since at least the 1950s, and today there is a great mixture of some long traditional routes as well as some of the longest and best quality accessible sports routes in the Midlands. However the site is also a Nature Reserve (managed jointly by the Montgomery and Shropshire Wildlife Trusts) and has been a Site of Special Scientific Interest since 1953. This means that some activities (called “Operations Likley to Damage the Special Interest”) need formal consent from Natural England, and that carrying out these activities without formal consent can be illegal under the Wildlife & Countryside Act. This is quite a comprehensive list and includes such things as spreading fertiliser, burning vegetation, but also includes activities such as carrying out engineering works such as drilling (including bolts!), modification or clearance of loose rock or grading rockfaces.

Click here to read the full article on the BMC website

Dave’s dream come true

April 6th, 2010 by MickJ 1 comment »

DW2 managed to ‘break his dream’ this Easter weekend by finally climbing A Dream of white horses HVS 5a on Wen slab, Gogarth after 8 years and 9 attempts. He said, “I’d gone to do the route on many occasions but had to abort for various reasons including bad weather and once a partner refused to abseil down with me!” The route traverses the slab from the right and passes above spiders web arch in the back of the zawn. Climbing is atmospheric and a slip on the last pitch can leave you dangling in space. After the route was completed he commented, “Pitch 4 is a real adventure and my type of climbing!”

Dave at high water belay on pitch 1

Approaching belay on pitch 1

Considering gear options on pitch 2

Traversing to concrete chimney on pitch 3

Savouring the moves on pitch 4

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Winter wonderland in North Wales

March 20th, 2010 by committee No comments »

Who would have thought that we would see such conditions in March. Below is a selection of images including Dave Wilkinson enjoying a rest on top of Pen yr ole wen after leading left hand fork of Y gully with Mick Jones. Conditions were fairly good especially out of the sun.

Carneddau from Mynydd Llandygai

Llyn Lloer and Y gully left of centre

King Dafydd on his throne at the top of Pen yr ole wen

Tryfan and the Glyderrau from Pen yr Ole Wen

Glyderrau from Nant Francon valley

Historic Club Magazines

March 6th, 2010 by admin No comments »

We have a number of old club magazines available to download. Most are in their original format, unedited scans but some have been digitally edited to create a cleaner and smaller file. If you are interested in helping re-master some of the magazines please let us know using the contact us page.

Some of the files are quite large and may take a little while to download. The file sizes are shown in brackets

Sport England seeks new Board members

February 25th, 2010 by admin No comments »

Sport England wants leading individuals in community sport to consider applying to join its Board.
Sport England and the Department for Culture, Media and Sport are seeking to recruit up to five new Board members, strengthening the team that oversees Sport England’s performance as it works to create a world-leading community sport system. These vacancies provide an opportunity for a suitably experienced member of the mountaineering world to play an influential role in the development of community sport in England.

Read the full article on the BMC website.

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Julie’s Marathon effort

February 10th, 2010 by committee No comments »

Clearly in the midst of a middle age crisis, Julie applied for a place in this years London Marathon – and she got one.  Everyone says how lucky she is to get a much coveted place, Julie says it’s not luck that she is feeling at the moment – more pain!

Getting a ballot place in the London Marathon, means that you don’t have to raise any money for charity if you don’t want to.  Being a longish standing member of the club, Julie decided to use her marathon place to support the club’s fundraising efforts for Mountain Rescue.

As you will know, Mountain Rescue is funded by donation and staffed by volunteers.  They will come out in all weathers to help people who have had accidents, have got lost or even for those who are  just plain stupid.   Unfortunately some members of the club have had to use Mountain Rescue, and because of them, live to tell the tale.  So however you enjoy your time in the mountains and the countryside, please spare some time and money to support Mountain Rescue.

You can support Julie’s fundraising efforts by sponsoring her, either through her “Just Giving” site www.justgiving.com/Julie-BlackWMC or by buying raffle tickets at the club slideshow, or just giving her cash!!

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Drytooling

January 27th, 2010 by committee No comments »

You may or may not have heard of drytooling. It is climbing but crampons and ice axes are used to cross terrain that does not contain ice or snow. Outdoor it is usually used to cross an area of rock to reach another area of snow or ice. Drytooling is also becoming popular at indoor walls where crampons are not used but axes, a helmet and other safety equipment is used.

Shropshire climbing wall is hosting a drytooling event in February. It sounds like the taster sessions and competition they have planned will be fun to watch. Full details are on their website www.newportrock.com

A week in November

January 12th, 2010 by StewartM No comments »

Inland Costa Blanca in the SE of Spain attracted us to live there… last November Alex spent six days with us. This is a photo diary of an enjoyable time together. Click here to read the article (1.1MB pdf)

2010 Meets

December 11th, 2009 by committee No comments »

It finaly here, the 2010 meets program was unveiled at the AGM this week and is available to download in pdf format by clicking the link below.  As ever, if you wish to attend a meet please visit us on a Tuesday night before the meet.

We have a good variety of meets planned. We have winter mountaineering and mountain biking in Scotland. We are due to visit many parts of England and Wales to climb, walk and mountain bike.

We also have number of members planning a trip to Yosemite, America in September and a long weekend meet on the Isle of Skye, Scotland in May.

2010 Meets Card.pdf