The UK is internationally important for a number of bird species, which are often vulnerable during the nesting period. The BMC works in partnership with conservation bodies to ensure any restrictions agreed are as minimal in extent and duration as possible, whilst still allowing birds to nest successfully. In many cases restrictions are lifted as soon as the chicks fledge the nest.

The BMC asks all climbers to check restrictions for the areas in which they climb. Climbers have an excellent record of respecting bird nesting restrictions and continued goodwill is important to develop and maintain good relations with landowners and conservation bodies. The 2011 poster should be appearing at walls, shops and cafes over the next few weeks, but a downloadable version is available here.

The BMC’s Regional Access Database (RAD) should be the every climber’s first stop for up-to-date access information. The RAD is a searchable database of all the crags in England and Wales with special access and conservation considerations, including all the agreed nesting restrictions. Check the RAD here.

Dale route checking in Pembroke

Its getting to that time of the year when the MOD all access to the western part of the Castlemartin firing range in Pembroke. As the area is a live firing range it is full of nasties such as unexploded bombs. Climbing is still restricted by and anyone wishing to climb within the range must attend one of the briefings held at the Castlemartin camp.

In previous years a briefed climber could take an unbriefed climber onto the range but as of last year this is no longer the case and all climbers must attend one of the briefings which start at 9am and are to be held on:

• Saturday 29 May
• Saturday 19 June – Cancelled, re-arranged for 3rd July
• Saturday 31 July

Please note the range is closed for the whole month of June. The MoD have exercises operating 7 days a week. The range is due to reopen on the 3rd July.

More information can be found on the BMC website here and here

Climbing has taken place here since at least the 1950s, and today there is a great mixture of some long traditional routes as well as some of the longest and best quality accessible sports routes in the Midlands. However the site is also a Nature Reserve (managed jointly by the Montgomery and Shropshire Wildlife Trusts) and has been a Site of Special Scientific Interest since 1953. This means that some activities (called “Operations Likley to Damage the Special Interest”) need formal consent from Natural England, and that carrying out these activities without formal consent can be illegal under the Wildlife & Countryside Act. This is quite a comprehensive list and includes such things as spreading fertiliser, burning vegetation, but also includes activities such as carrying out engineering works such as drilling (including bolts!), modification or clearance of loose rock or grading rockfaces.

Click here to read the full article on the BMC website

Read the full article on the BMC website.

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• Cheddar Gorge – Ban on Bolting
• Pembroke Climbers Liaison Meeting
• More Access News
• Roaches – New Updated Guidebook in stock
• The minutes of the inaugural Clubs Committee meeting are now available

Carol on Looning the Tube, Dinorwig Quarries

The Dinorwig quarries are our local crag when we are at the hut. As some may be aware part of t quarry was closed for filming over the summer and Dali’s hole is becoming more and more popular. The owners of the quarries, First Hydro, have concerns about their liability.

The BMC requests

Climbers are asked to avoid gathering in large groups at this very visible site [Dali's Hole] and organised groups (club meets, youth groups, etc.) are requested to be particulary aware of the sensitivity of this site and the need to keep a low profile here.

You can read the full report on the BMC website here BMC – Access & Conservation .